Monday, March 31, 2008

Water restrictions in Cyprus

I'm not surprised.

This has been one of the driest winters since we came here, and reservoirs were very low after last summer.

But still, we all hoped and prayed for rain. It hasn't happened - not in sufficient quantity to make any difference, anyway.

And so, on Friday, the first water restrictions started. Our mains was switched off in the morning. I wasn't sure if this was the start of the rationing, or whether it was simply because someone was having a water pipe fitted nearby. It came on again in the evening, but was then off again for some of Saturday. And while it was on for most of Sunday, it was off this morning - and still is, as I type, at half-past two on Monday afternoon.

A quick glance at the newspapers confirmed it. The Cyprus mail reports 'Water cuts begin in Nicosia'. Last Friday's edition of Cyprus Weekly reports, at rather greater length, 'Water cuts begin today'.

Cyprus is unusual in that most homes have both hot and cold water tanks, and also a mains tap - or a switch under the tap for mains water. Cold water from the tank is theoretically drinkable - since it is filled up by the mains - but many of the older tanks are in poor condition, with holes allowing dirt and mosquitoes (and worse). And of course, water that has sat in a tank for a day or two isn't as tasty as fresh water straight from the mains.

But it does mean that, if we're careful, there's sufficient water in the tank for normal use - at least, for showers, and toilet flushing, and cooking. We'll get back into the habit of storing drinking water from the mains in bottles - restrictions were the norm when we first moved here, so we know it's possible.

More of a problem is knowing what to do about the washing machine and dishwasher. Theoretically, the dishwasher is supposed to use less water than washing dishes in the sink, and we usually run it just once per day - less if there are only two of us at home. We may just continue using it and see what happens. If we run out, we do at least have another tank that services our guest flat, and could take showers there.

But when we had restricted water before, I only ran the washing machine when the mains was on. I used to do about three loads every Wednesday and Saturday (or whichever days the water was on). I had a lot of washing line to hang it all out. But here I only have enough washing line for one load of laundry, unless I also use the downstairs washing line, so I've got into the habit of doing one load per morning, five or six days per week. I suppose that will have to change.

The papers aren't very clear about how often we will have water, which doesn't help from the point of view of planning. I think the Cyprus Weekly report is saying that we should have 10-16 hours of water on in every 48 hour period. But if it's overnight, that won't necessarily help other than filling up the tanks.

There's also quite a problem with some of the newer houses and flats, where there are no cold water tanks. After all, we were assured, seven years ago when the Larnaka de-salination plant opened, that Cyprus would never again have to suffer from water restrictions. Unfortunately a wet winter that year ensured that the proposed Paphos de-salination plant was never built... and of course the population has increased, and water usage has also increased, and so we're right back where we were when we first arrived and the island was about to run out of water.

Ironically, it rained last night. Not much, but enough to water the plants and wet the roads.

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Lenten fast food in Cyprus...?

In our Protestant tradition, we don't tend to fast during Lent. Some people might give up something for the season - chocolate, perhaps, or alcohol - but it's not expected.

However, for the Greek Orthodox Christians, who dominate Cyprus, fasting is a fairly regulated expectation. The official details can be found in this page about the fasting rules of the Orthodox Church.

In a nutshell - as we were told when we first came here, over ten years ago - they don't eat any meat or fish (other than shellfish) during Lent; they don't drink any wine, except on Sundays during Lent; and they don't have any dairy products.

The point of fasting is to lead to a deeper spiritual experience of God, and as preparation for Easter. It's to remind us of Jesus in the wilderness, too, and - perhaps - to give away a little more money to the poor.

In other words, whether or not one is legalistic about it, the principle is to abstain from something one usually enjoys, and focus more on God.

All well and good.

And yes, I know Easter in the Western world was last Sunday, but in the Eastern church it's another month away. So they've had just three weeks of Lent, so far.

Many of the Cypriots are only nominally Greek Orthodox, and take little notice of the Lenten fast. We see them buying meat in the supermarkets, and while they don't tend to barbecue during Lent, we can certainly smell meaty scents of cooking, as usual. That's fine - fasting, Jesus told us, is to be done secretly and according to one's conviction.

But in recent years, we've noticed a much more disturbing trend. It started with McDonald's producing a new meal which they called 'McLent' - basically a veggie burger. It didn't take long for other fast-food places to catch onto the idea.

Last year I wrote a post about Lenten 'fast food' advertising. I thought it was a one-off.

Not so. This week, we have had THREE pieces of junk mail advertising - with green background - their special Lenten fasting offers.

Firstly there's Pizza Hut. They're advertising their potato wedges, meat-free pasta sauces, and salads. They still only seem to have one veggie pizza but it has no cheese topping during Lent:


Then there's Everest, offering veggie burgers, veggie sandwiches, and various salads:


Then finally, the one that really makes me cringe: KFC, famous for their chicken, offers veggie burgers, veggie twisters, salads, and spring rolls. Plus special deals - any of the above with fries or onion rings and a fizzy drink:


I'm not a fan of fast food at the best of times. But all this seems so sad - it's encouraging people to stick to the letter of the law, while completely ignoring the spirit of it. I can only assume KFC's campaign last year was successful, since they're repeating it, with even more offers this year.


(I expect these places are also rather annoyed that in Greek, the word for 'fast' meaning 'rapid' (as in 'fast food') bears no relation to the word for 'fast' meaning 'giving something up'. If England were a Greek Orthodox country, they would have such fun making bad puns on the two words!)

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Clocks change at the weekend in Cyprus

I read, somewhere, that most cats have autistic traits. Perhaps this refers to their aloofness, at times, and their refusal to deviate from whatever is holding their attention at the time, whether sleeping, washing or hunting. Moreover, cats tend to be more attached to places than people, and resent newcomers in their territory. And they don't like changes to their routine.

Sophia takes this one stage further. She doesn't just have her own routine, she organises our routines too. When Daniel used to have a weekly schedule of town band, youth group, drama classes, clarinet lessons, and so on, she knew what time he went out each day of the week, and what time to expect him home. If he was more than about ten minutes late, she would lie in wait for him outside, and complain bitterly when he finally arrived home.

She also knows when Richard is expected home for lunch each day. If he's not back by about 1.15pm she makes a great deal of fuss until he returns.

All of which is actually somewhat amusing.

Less amusing, for me, is that she wakes me up each morning. This isn't a problem in the winter; I'm an early bird and like to get up about 6.30am, so I have plenty of time to myself before the others surface. Unfortunately, Sophia's internal clock isn't too accurate in the mornings. She seems to decide that my time-to-get-up is when the sun rises. So since about early February, she has been waking me slightly earlier each day.

I can cope with 6am. In the summer, that's a better time to get up, since Cyprus is very hot by around 9am. I can get a lot done in those three hours before I estivate in the air conditioning.

But I really don't like being awoken at 5.30am. Or, as has been the case the last few days, 5.20am. You might think we could just shut her out of the bedroom, but that would be no good. She has a very loud voice, and would waken the entire household, howling and banging on the door.

You might also think that I could at least lie in bed until 6am, even if she is stalking around and miaowing. You would be wrong. If I don't get up at the first mews, she jumps on me, and starts patting at the bedclothes. If that doesn't work, she starts tapping at my arms, with just a hint of claws.

If I manage to snuggle right inside the duvet, with nothing showing, she starts pulling tissues out of the box and playing with them. Or knocking books out of the bookcase. Or patting at the bedside lamp to knock it over. All the time, complaining bitterly that I am being very lazy, and should get out of bed right away.

So I get out... Sophia then goes into the bathroom and waits for me, before ushering me downstairs.

I have been very, very tired the last few days. Yesterday I slept for two hours in the afternoon, and still fell asleep before 10pm at night. This morning, when Sophia appeared at 5.20am, Richard (who is not an early bird at all) got up and went downstairs with her. He gave her the crunchies she likes, and some water, then got back into bed again. Half an hour later, she was back... I did at least get to sleep a little longer, but no way would she allow me to stay in bed beyond 6am.

So I am very much looking forward to the weekend, when European clocks go forward an hour, for Summer Time (or daylight savings, as they call it in some places). Usually I don't like losing an hour, but the great advantage is that the sun will not rise until after six o'clock. At least for the next month or so. And I'm quite sure Sophia doesn't understand about clock changes....

Monday, March 24, 2008

Cyprus is unseasonably warm

It has already been an incredibly dry winter in Cyprus, meaning that our low water supplies are now at extremely serious levels. It has also been much warmer than usual, other than in January.

This weekend, the temperature in Larnaka was 25C. In the shade. Even Richard took off his sweatshirt and spent a couple of hours in shirtsleeves in late morning. In Nicosia, apparently, it was reported to be 30C on Saturday. That's the kind of temperature we expect in June, not March.

By evening there was a bit of a breeze, and I don't think it's been quite so hot today. But even so, it's tiring.

Still, the plants on our front porch seem to be enjoying it. The fig tree, which lost all its leaves late last year, is now in leaf again, looking healthy and glossy:

The citrus trees are covered with early blossom, too, although no doubt most of it will fall off:

It would be nice if we actually had a lemon or two this year, but the plants may still be too young. One or two of the buds have even opened out into flower - the scent is amazing:

The petunias have been doing magnificently - they're almost past their best, but should keep going for another month or two before it becomes too hot for them. Assuming, of course, that the temperature doesn't keep on increasing:

Even the bougainvillea is beginning to develop pink bracts:

Friday, March 21, 2008

Good Friday - in five weeks time in Cyprus

Today is Good Friday for the Western church. However in Cyprus, where the majority are (at least nominally) Greek Orthodox, Good Friday will be in five weeks' time. They have only had two weeks of Lent, so far.

Since the state and church are very tied together on this island, there will be public holidays on Good Friday and Easter Monday in five weeks time, but not today or Western Easter Monday.

Some years the two Easters coincide; it's a pity, really, that we can't all adopt the same calculation of dates, but I suppose nobody wants to compromise. Five weeks is the furthest apart they can be (apparently); it doesn't happen all that often.

It's really rather strange when it does, though. For instance, Easter eggs have only just started appearing in the supermarkets; and even then, only a small selection. There are usually lots of Cadbury chocolate eggs, with different bars included, but not this year. Not yet, anyway - they'll probably appear in the next week or two.

I didn't see any hot cross buns yet, either, which is a bit odd as they had them in the supermarkets over Christmas. Perhaps other ex-pats, more traditional than we are, have bought them all. I know I could make hot cross buns, but having tried once, it's a lot of effort for a result that's not nearly so good as the ready-made variety.

Tim's church, St Helena's Anglican, had a Maundy Thursday light supper with Communion last night, and the traditional three-hour meditation service today. As the church musician, he had to be present for both, and stayed for the entire three hours. At the Community Church, where I usually go, there was an evening Good Friday service, at which Daniel was asked to play clarinet. He and Tim go to the youth group which meets in the Community Church hall anyway, so it was no problem for Daniel to go to the service and miss the first part of youth group.

Our house group, which usually meets here on a Friday evening, was cancelled as some of the others were going to the service, but I decided not to go. So Richard and I had a peaceful evening at home with the cats. The house feels very empty without the boys here... but we'll have to get used to it, as Daniel has only a month of his furlough left, and Tim will be off to university in the UK in late Summer.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Trying to keep the cats in overnight

Ever since Jemima vanished last November, we've been more careful about keeping the other three cats in overnight. Through the winter, this hasn't been a problem - they would much rather sleep on a warm, soft, occupied bed than outside on a cold, hard surface.

A couple of nights ago I was working on my home education web-site - updating yet again, with a new style - and didn't really think about the cats until I switched off my computer around 10pm. Richard and Daniel were out, but Tim was in his room.

So I popped my head around his door, and asked if any of the cats were with him. Yes indeed - he had Cleo on his bed:


And Tessie was sitting on his lap while he typed:


But he couldn't remember seeing Sophia for a couple of hours.

So I looked in our room, and then in Dan's room - which is Sophia's favourite place to be.

No sign of her.

So I checked, again, in the living room and study. I looked under the dining room table to see if she was on one of the chairs.

No sign of Sophia.

I went out onto all the balconies, and called.

No sign or sound of Sophia. And she can make a LOT of noise when she wants to!

I went downstairs, and checked the guest flat - though I couldn't see any way she could have got in there in the last three hours. I went up and down the street a little way, calling quietly and also listening, in case she had got shut in someone's shed.

Still no sight of sound of Sophia.

I was getting quite worried by this time. I went back into the house, and checked yet again all the places I had already checked...

Then I went back into Tim's room, almost in despair. Where on earth could she be? I wondered if I should phone Richard and Daniel (who were doing something at Richard's office) but it seemed a bit silly. However I was sure I wouldn't get to sleep. Our neighbourhood is very friendly, and has a fair number of cats, but in general Cyprus is not a good place for cats and I hated the thought of her falling into the wrong hands.

Then... I just happened to glance up at Tim's tall bookcase. On top of it is a brown patterned blanket, which he used on top of his duvet during the winter. Soon I'll wash it and put it away for the Summer, but we might still have a cold spell, so it's just roughly folded and sitting on Tim's bookcase.

As I glanced up, I saw something twitch gently.

I backed away and stood on tiptoe.

Yes, there was Sophia, very comfortable, and so fast asleep that she hadn't even heard me call!


(She looks fairly obvious in the photo, but I took it by holding the camera above my head to get a better view of her).

I was very, very thankful.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

The constrasts of Cyprus

Walking down one of the main roads of Larnaka, towards the Post Office, I realised what a contrast there is between the view on my right (the recently renovated Fanoroumani Church):



and the view on my left:



(Either photo can be clicked to show a bigger version).

It's typical of Larnaka. The whole city seems to be in a process of construction, or re-development. New houses and blocks of flats go up - slowly - and old houses are pulled down - not so slowly. Other old houses, perhaps now officially listed, just sit there getting more run-down and tatty. And there are patches of wasteland, where cars park and weeds grow rapidly.

Yet there are also some lovely buildings, like the Greek Orthodox Churches, and some of the houses. Not just the grand, wealthy-looking homes, either. There are some beautiful tiny terraced stone houses around the area we used to live, well-kept with attractive gardens.

Yet, more and more, it seems that many people don't care. They are out at work making money all day, so they don't have time to do anything much with their houses. They don't care if they are beautiful, so long as they are warm and efficient to run. And if they have to knock down one of the old-style houses, they will build as many flats as they can afford, so that they can rent them all out and make yet more money.

Yes, capitalist thinking is alive and well in Cyprus.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

We know it's Spring in Cyprus...

It is definitely Spring. Not just because of the yellow flowers everywhere. Not just because it's now Lent in both Eastern and Western calculations. Not just because the evenings are getting lighter...

No. I know it's spring, because I have to re-think the temperature for the fluids added to our breadmaker ingredients. All through winter, I've heated the soya milk for about 40 seconds in the microwave, and used slightly warm water. When the kitchen is only about 12C, it needs the extra boost of more-than-hand-hot fluids.

But earlier this week, we had a loaf that looked like this:



- I had forgotten about this problem. When the ingredients are too warm, the bread rises too fast and then sinks. The kitchen is now regularly at 18-19C; still not sufficiently warm to use ice-cold ingredients, but somehow I need to find an intermediate temperature.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Larnaka municipality not setting the greatest example...

We have a serious water shortage in Cyprus. It's been getting more serious for the last year, and it's been an exceptionally dry winter. Apparently there's some snow in the mountains, which will feed the reservoirs as it melts - but nowhere near enough for the island's requirements.

So there's been a hosepipe and sprinkler ban for a couple of years. Sort of. We read that significant fines would be imposed for anyone found using hosepipes to wash their cars, or their patios, or the pavement outside their homes. Cypriots are very clean and like to wash down their patios and the street in front of their house regularly.

Did the ban stop them? No. Instead they started doing their hosing on Sundays, or very early in the mornings during the week when they knew that the police would not be out to fine them.

However, the recent warnings from the water board that water is very low do seem to have made a little difference. I don't see quite so many people using hosepipes in our neighbourhood as I used to. And I have spotted one or two men washing their cars with a bucket, rather than a hose.

It's not forbidden to water plants with a hosepipe, although I just use a watering can for our patio. Cyprus is so dry in the summer that it's important to keep trees watered, if we're not to end up as a desert.

But I hardly think it's a great example to see sprinklers on the grass (which is mostly weeds) in front of the Municipal Library in broad daylight, with some of the water not even hitting the grass...